Bowing out at Pucci

Got a hold of this a few months late, but am personally relieved as, over the last two years at least, have never been able to come to terms with the fawning of fashion editors over either of Williamson's collections. While he's quite a sweet fella to interview, his collections have become boring, self indulgent and frankly, smack of such direct copying of cultural emblems, it's been embarrassing to watch. 

I used to love his cheekiness, his cleverness. Clearly his holidays aren't inspiring him in the way they used to. It's time for a bit of a think, Mr Williamson, and perhaps, a little less global swanning? 

Bowing out at Pucci

Imogen Fox in Milan

Friday September 26 2008
The Guardian

With his head high, British designer Matthew Williamson took his final bow as artistic director of the Florentine print label Pucci as Milan fashion week drew to a close yesterday.

Williamson has held the position for the past three years in addition to designing his own London-based eponymous line, but from October 1, when his contract comes to an end, Peter Dundas - a relatively unknown Norwegian designer - will step into his shoes.

At first the Pucci/Williamson coupling seemed liked the ideal marriage, he being a lover of prints and bright colour, both hallmarks of the 60-year-old label. Williamson quickly established a formula of resort dressing for the exceedingly rich. From Gstaad to Capri, Williamson had the wealthy holiday wardrobe sorted.

But recently there have been criticisms that the label was starting to look more like the designer's signature line. Indeed, yesterday, although there were brightly printed swimsuits to please the Pucci faithful, a bold tiger and jungle design on a mesh jumpsuit was a look only one of Williamson's famous Ibizan party-circuit friends could pull off.

There have been rumours that the Pucci bosses were unhappy with Williamson's multitasking and travelling, particularly as he is in the process of expanding his business in the US. In a recent interview, Laudomia Pucci, daughter of the company's founder, Emilio, stated how important it is that Dundas will be based in Florence. He has a strong print background and although he is currently collaborating with a Parisian furrier, he will no doubt have fewer distractions than Williamson.

Copyright Guardian Newspapers Limited 2009